It appears that the socket you selected may be intended for a lamp with a second bulb in its base and therefore it has more than the usual two screw terminals. Did the original socket have just two screw terminals? Are you intending to use the lamp with a single-filament bulb or with a two-filament bulb (low, med, hi)? If your original socket had just two screw terminals and the new socket has three, try to obtain a socket with just two screw terminals. The non-ribbed wire will have to go on the switched terminal, which is the one pictured closest to the screw shell lampholder.

Burning smells, brief or not, are never good. Most 20" box fans sell for around $20, so replacing a motor is cost-prohibitive. Repairs usually involve dry bearings which are solved with lubricant. Sometimes when the bearings get dry, the motor overheats and there is a thermal fuse laced to the winding which can open, making the motor dead. This thermal fuse can be replaced, but does not smoke when it fails. At this point, we need to re-diagnose at the next Repair Cafe..

Contact Corecentricsolutions in Carol Stream, IL - they remanufacture boards and may have a suggestion.

As Rich says, in addition to omissions in your home, you may have an open or shorted capacitor in your food processor. The motor is probably not burned-out, or you would have smelled smoke from the burned winding. The capacitor is external to the motor - it may be soldered-in or have pull-off electrical connectors. We are assuming that there is no visible damage to the cord. Rich is on the west side of Portland and I am frequently on the east side - are you located in one of those areas? Another possibility would be a grounded switch, if the unit has ever been wet. It has a three-wire cord and the product is grounded through the cord.

As you know from the weight of your food processor, it has a very powerful motor. Is it the breaker in the main box that trips, or the GFI outlet in the kitchen? Have you tried using it on a different circuit, such as in the laundry room? There is a capacitor in the power unit which may have become weak or shorted and that could be the problem assuming that it rotates freely (bearings not frozen because liquid got in them). It's too good for the landfill and can be repaired!

@Lauren Gross Is your ohmmeter analog or digital? First, turn the selector to the RX1 setting and touch the leads together to make certain that it reads zero, or close to zero. Then put one lead on one end terminal of the element and the other lead on the other end terminal and read the resistance. No change in the digital reading or no deflection on the analog meter would mean that the element was "open", or burned-out. Sadly, I didn't see any repair parts listed (see Right-to-Repair).

@Lauren Gross That's one of the two possible materials used for heating elements. Testing for resistance with an ohmmeter would determine if the element is good or bad - sadly, I didn't see any parts available. Hugh also mentioned that there could be a thermal fuse in series with the element.

While looking for parts, I read the negative reviews for this model and one repeated, was because this model has but a single top and bottom element, uneven browning of toast was a problem from trying to center the bread between the elements. Also, to set the toast color, you had to turn the color knob each time so that no two days produced the same color toast - there was only one positive review and I never found any parts list or parts available.

The bottom heats so we can eliminate the cord. Are the top heaters metal tubes or quartz tubes? If metal, can you feel any burned spots by running your fingers along the tubes? Usually the top elements were connected in series, so if one burned out, neither would heat. Have you removed the right end covering to look for burned connections at the ends of the heaters, or burned contacts on a selector switch?

Assume it's a toaster oven and not a pop-up toaster. Make and model?